Provence, France

By Ashley Rudolph

February 3^rd, 2020

If you've been following me for awhile, you know that I've had a longstanding love affair with France. I've been making my way through the country (city by city) for almost two decades with very memorable pit stops in Paris (6+ times!), Bordeaux, Loire Valley, and a semester in Lyon that included visits to Chamonix, the Beaujolais region, and Nice. Last summer, I had my heart set on revisiting the South of France - specifically Provence - and it was the best decision! Here are my tips for visiting Marseille and the Provençal countryside.

What to do in Marseille

Before heading to Marseille, a lot of my research described the city as "dangerous" or "dirty" which put me on guard unnecessarily. After visiting, I can say that I loved this city! It's quirky, imperfect, and overflowing with tons of culture and charm. I never once felt unsafe and whenever I recap my trip to the SoF (south of France), Marseille floats to the top as one of the highlights - I would go back!

Where to stay and eat

Intercontinental Hotel Dieu: I stayed at the Intercon and loved it. It's tucked away, about a 10 minute walk to the waterfront but well worth it. It was beautiful, the concierge was incredibly helpful (and upgraded our room!), the restaurant was great, and the spa area looked incredibly relaxing (although we didn't indulge). I'd stay here again.
Mama Shelter: Although Mama Shelter is a hotel chain and I stayed at the location in Bordeaux, I planned a visit there exclusively for dinner on this trip. I took one look around and wondered if being good looking was a pre-requisite for working there. That said, if you want yummy eats, great cocktails, and eye candy (as a replacement for dessert) - add Mama Shelter to your Marseille list.

What to do

Visit the Calanques: This is a MUST - seriously. When you visit the Calanques you'll be surrounded by huge limestone rock formations and the most beautiful turquoise - so clear you can see through to the bottom - sea water. We did the AM tour (which helped us adequately avoid the heat wave). When you're out on the boat, you'll have multiple chances to swim and/or relax and take it all in.
Take the Petit Train to Notre Dame de la Garde: We (me and my mom) had some time to kill in the AM before driving out to the countryside, so we decided to take a ride on the Petit Train and visit Marseille's Notre Dame cathedral. The train is cute (albeit touristy) and it's a quick way to make your way all the way to the cathedral that sits atop of hill overlooking the entire city.
Visit the MuCEM: There are many awesome things about MuCEM. The draws, for me, were the exhibits and the museum itself (it's gorgeous!). The museum is devoted to exploring Mediterranean cultures. My favorite was the Connectivities permanent exhibit highlighted the history of 4 major port cities: Marseille, Cairo, Istanbul, Casablanca and how thy've changed over time.
Walk along the waterfront (the Old Port) and get a touristy photo in front of the huge Marseille sign: self explanatory.
Try Bouillabaise: Bouillabaise is a fish stew that Marseille is famous for. I didn't try it while I was there, because it's really hard to convince yourself to seek out hot stew/soup in the middle of summer during a heat wave :) Next time I'm in Marseille, I'll try it!

What to do in the Provençal countryside

Where to stay, visit, and/or luxuriate

Domaine des Andeols: Andeols was another trip highlight. Everything was perfect, from the Garden Suite overlooking the on site lavender fields, the healthy and tasty options for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and the expansive property itself (with pools, tennis courts, and plenty of space to hike + ride bikes). If I were in the area, I'd stay here again.
Villa la Coste: I spent my birthday at Chateau la Coste! Starting with a long (and delicious!) lunch at Restaurant Mallman, then walked around the Chateau la Coste property - there's a vineyard and lots of contemporary art pieces. If my mom and I had more time, I would've spent more time relaxing on the Terrace.
La Coquillade: I have to admit that I didn't visit this property, but it DID make it onto my short list of hotels I wanted to stay at in the region. It seems like it has the perfect mix of amenities that I enjoyed at Andeols and Villa la Coste, and generally speaking, I wouldn't steer you wrong :)

Where to eat

Restaurant Mallman: If you've watched Chef's Table - you're probably familiar with Francis Mallman's story. I went to his restaurant at the Faena in Miami and knew that I couldn't miss a visit to his Provence resto (the only one in Europe!). I will say that planning a midday lunch of steak basically prepared in an open fire pit in the middle of summer was probably not the best idea - I was sweating...but it was definitely worth it. Every course from start to finish was impeccable. If I went back during the summer, I might opt for a dinner reservation instead!
Restaurant David: This restaurant was tucked away in Roussillon, overlooking a cliff. Each course was presented beautifully, and more importantly, tasted AMAZING. Our concierge at Andeols made our dinner reservations here since it wasn't far from the property and we were not disappointed. If you find yourself in Luberon or Roussillon, it's worth a visit.